All the years we have travelled to Skåne to visit Saku’s mother, we’ve always dreamed of visiting the island of Bornholm. And now we finally did with our own sailboat!
To Bornholm from Sweden
With the right westerly or south-westerly winds, the west cost of Bornholm is 8-10 hour away from Sweden. We sailed to Rønne (“capital” of Bornholm) from Smygehamn (the southern most point of Sweden). The leg was 48 nautical miles and it took 9h 25 minutes. The westerly winds that had continued for days had raised the wave height in the open sea to an unpleased level and the tailwind was about 10m/s. Just before we arrived to Rønne, Anton decided to go from the cockpit to the salon because “there’s skiing slopes everywhere” – as he put it.
Rønne, capital of Bornholm
The Rønne harbour was full when we arrived on July 1st just after 6pm. After some spinning in the spacious harbour (no issues there), we tried an empty spot that was too narrow for us and we were stuck between the harbour pillars for a moment… :( We ended being side-parked as the 4th boat from the pier but moved to a better spot the next morning.
The Rønne guest harbor was just another harbor with no special atmosphere but the small harbor for the fishing boats was adorable and had a fish shop. The harbor also had professional looking bicycle rental shops.
Sandy beaches north from Rønne are a walking distance or a bike ride away from the guest harbor.
The town itself was picturesque with the old colorful and well-restored houses.
The foldable bicycle we have was very useful in Rønne and both Saku and I did an evening sightseeing tour with it. Surprisingly the town was very quiet and everything was closed already very early in the evening. If I will sail to Bornholm again, I will either skip Rønne or visit it with public transportation for a day from another harbour.
Hammerhavn and Sandvig
Hammerhavn (picture) and Sandvig at the north end of Bornholm were one of the best bits of our entire journey from Germany to Finland.
The Hammerhavn harbour is a tiny lagoon like pool with very narrow entrance.
With the high waves, strong wind and me seasick as hell, entering the Hammerhavn harbour pool felt like the waves just tossed us in. Sandvig harbour would have been just around the corner on the east side of the island and more sheltered but turned out that the Hammerhavn harbour actually was the nicer one.
The harbour had new, modern facilities including a common room with huge glass windows towards the sea and a fireplace. The showers had skylights that you could open and shower under the blue sky – luxury! (See Cubo Arkitekter’s for more details.) The harbour free was 170 DKK/night (23EUR) and there were only 3 other boats there during our stay.
From the Hammerhavn harbour, we took a 10 km circular walking track to the north peak of Bornholm and visited the small town of Sandvig on they way. The track started right from the harbour.
This was a very nice walk with altering terrain, rocks and cliffs with scenic views and a lighthouse.
Sandvig was quieter than expected with only couple of cafes and small grocery store. Don’t plan to stack provisions here for a longer journey.
The next morning, before we headed to Utklippan, Sweden, we had a breakfast run to the castle ruins overlooking the Hammerhavn harbour.
The castle was definitely worth a visit.
Next time: East coast
When we were in Bornholm, the east coast would have been more sheltered from the prevailing winds and waves. We considered visiting the harbour of Gudjhem on the east coast and Christiansö island on our way north but decided to leave them for some other time.